At present, most of our fabrics are divided into knitted and woven. Woven fabrics are fabrics formed by weaving warp yarns and weft yarns perpendicular to each other.
Woven fabric
The yarns of the two systems (or directions) are perpendicular to each other, and the fabric formed by interweaving according to a certain rule is a woven fabric (also called a woven fabric).
The basic organization is the simplest and most basic organization among all kinds of organizations, and it forms the basis of various changes and fancy organizations. The basic weaves include plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.
1. Plain woven
Weave parameters Plain weave is the simplest of all fabric weaves. The organization rule is one up and down, and two roots alternately become a complete organization.
Features
The warp and weft yarns of the plain weave have the most interweaving points, and the yarns are buckled. Therefore, the fabric has a flat surface, a firm body, a firm texture, and a compact appearance, but it has a hard hand feeling and low elasticity. In actual use, according to different requirements, various methods are used, such as the thickness of warp and weft yarns, the change of warp and weft yarn density, and the different combinations and configurations of twists, twist directions and colors, etc., to obtain various special Appearance effect.
Plain weaves are widely used in cotton, wool, silk, and linen fabrics, such as flat cloths with a smooth surface, fine-textured spun, poplin with clear diamond particles, four grosgrains with the appearance of obvious uneven horizontal stripes, and crepe The effect of seersucker and georgette, as well as the hidden effect of validin, paris, tulle, flannel, etc.
2. Twill weave
The characteristic of the twill weave is that the short floating lengths in the warp direction or the short floating lengths in the weft direction are arranged in a stepwise manner, forming a continuous diagonal line on the surface of the fabric. The movement of each warp yarn is the same, but the starting point is different.
Features
Twill weave is divided into warp, weft and double-sided twill. Where the warp weave points on the surface of the fabric account for the majority, such as 2/1 is the warp twill, on the contrary, the weft weave points account for the majority, such as 1/3 of the weft twill. The opposite of the warp twill is the weft twill, but the diagonal is opposite. The ratio of the two kinds of organization points on both sides is the same, but the diagonal is opposite, which is called double-sided twill.
There are also differences in the degree of inclination of the diagonal lines. In the diagonal weave weave, the angle of intersection between the diagonal line and the horizontal line is expressed as the diagonal angle. As a becomes larger, the greater the warp density, the steeper the diagonal line. The twill weave when α>450 is called sharp twill, the twill when α<450 is gentle twill, and when α=450, it means the warp and weft density of the fabric is equal.
Compared with plain weave, the twill weave has fewer interweaving points and has floating length. Its fabric is softer and thicker than plain weave, and its gloss is better, but its fastness is not as good as plain weave. The twill thread on its surface can be clear and obvious according to the selected twist direction and warp and weft density ratio. Or the lines are full and prominent, even and straight.
Common twill fabrics are twill, serge, khaki, and gabardine that have a flat pattern.
3. Satin weave
Satin weave is the most complicated kind of basic weave. It is characterized by only one single weave point (warp weave point or weft weave point) on each warp yarn (or weft yarn), and two adjacent yarns There is a certain distance between the individual weave points, and they are covered by the warp float or weft float on both sides, so that the surface of the fabric is almost composed of a warp float or weft float, so the fabric surface is smooth and shiny. Good and soft texture.
Common satin fabrics have a wide range of applications. In cotton and wool fabrics, five satin weaves are mostly used to obtain straight tribute, horizontal tribute, horizontal satin, etc., and eight satin weaves are mostly used in silk fabrics to obtain various satin and flower satin with better luster. Satin or satin textured fabric.
4. Change organization
The changed organization is a variety of derivative organizations obtained by changing (such as changing the number of yarn cycles, float length, flying number, twill line direction, etc.) on the basis of the original organization. The change organization can be divided into three categories: plain weave change organization (including heavy flat weave, square flat weave, etc.), twill change organization (including reinforced twill, compound twill, angle twill, mountain twill, diamond twill, reed mat twill, etc.), satin weave Change organization (including strengthening satin, changing satin, etc.).
Plain weave fabrics have a convex stripe effect in appearance. They are mostly used to design poplin, linen yarn, robes, etc., while others have a smooth appearance, soft and elastic hand feel, and good gloss. They are often used as edge weaves for fabrics such as clothing and screens. The appearance of the fabric with varying twill weaves presents various twill effects, some show multiple twills in parallel, some yin and yang are halved, and some show herringbone and reed mat shapes. Therefore, it is widely used in various fabric designs such as cotton, wool, silk and chemical fiber.
Compared with the satin weave, the satin weave fabric is more random and free in design, so it has been widely used, such as in satin, satin check fabrics, woolen coats, women's fabrics and other fabrics. application.
5. Joint organizations and other complex organizations
Joint organization, a new organization formed by two or more organizations (original organization or changed organization) in different ways, called a joint organization. The surface of the joint organization has a special appearance effect, and the common ones are as follows: striped organization, through-hole organization, mesh organization, rib organization, honeycomb organization, crepe organization, these organizations are widely used in clothing and decorative fabrics application.
Complex organization, complex organization refers to the warp and weft yarns, at least one of which is composed of two or more systems of yarns. This kind of organization structure can increase the thickness of the fabric and make the surface compact, improve the abrasion resistance of the fabric and make the texture soft, or get some special properties. According to its organizational structure, it can be divided into two types, such as double structure, double layer structure, raised structure, towel structure, and leno structure. They are widely used in autumn and winter clothing, decorative fabrics (bed blankets, chair cushions) and industrial fabrics.
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